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Karlova Design

Cognac M Briefcase PDF Pattern

Cognac M Briefcase PDF Pattern

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This listing is for PDF pattern to make the bag, not the actual bag!

Video Tutorial for Cognac VS:

Make this gorgeous vintage briefcase! Cognac M (Medium) is a stylish retro satchel that is highly likely to become one of your favorite bags. Practical and functional with 2 compartments and 4 pockets, quick and easy to open thanks to the button studs, and plenty of room to be creative combining your favorite leathers and colors.

Size: approx. 11" x 8" x 2.5"


Because of the vintage style of this briefcase I recommend using veg tan - it will look its best, and also I highly recommend burnisning all the edges (all of them). Some other leathers also can be burnished like veg re-tan, and some combination tanned, so keep this in mind.

Also, there will be many layers to sew through, this is why I recommend choosing the leather wisely, especially for the back parts. So, when I recommend 3-4 oz, you’d better use something thinner than that, rather than thicker stuff. Also, this would also increase the weight of the finished briefcase. Therefore, choose wisely, and if you have doubts, contact me.

I also recommend skiving the end parts of the straps a little bit (the buckle strap where the buckle is attached, and at the end where they are sewn onto the bag; the shoulder strap ends where they are attached to swivel hooks; and the top D-ring holders at both ends as well because the thickness at these spots will be kinda insane if you don’t)

Main gussets: anything relatively soft, not too thick, but that depends on your preferences.
Body (all three panels) - 5.5-6.5 oz, firm temper.
Back outer pocket, zipper patch, front pockets - 3-4 oz, medium to firm temper
All straps (for closure, shoulder strap) and the top handle - 7-8 oz.
Flap - something beautiful and firm, I’d say 7-8 oz.
Zippered pocket backing - something thin like 3 oz.


2 x 1” swivel hooks (or you can attach the straps directly to D-rings if you want)
Rivets (you will need a couple of long ones, like 3/4“ - those on the back) or chicago screws
2 x 1” D-rings
2 x 1“ buckles
2 x 3/4” loops for top handle
1 x 9” zipper (9.5, with margins)
8 x button studs (size is up to you, something medium)

Pattern is designed for hand stitching.
Comes with written instructions and assembling pictures.

The pattern has stitching holes marked for 5 SPI stitching irons (5 stitches per inch, or approximately 5.2 mm). 5 mm stitching irons made by metric system sometimes fit, sometimes they don’t (depending on manufacturer). If you have 5 mm irons and the spacing seems a tad too large for them you can print the pattern at 96.2% scale. I advise to print one page and try your irons to see how they fit before printing the entire pattern.

Formats: A4 and USLetter.

Video about how to print the patterns and solve common printing problems if they happen:

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